What to expect visiting New York City at Christmas

New York City on a weekend in December: magic or madness?

7 minute read

‘Twas two weekends before Christmas, when all through Manhattan, I tried to find a taxi but that wasn’t going to happen. OK, I’m exaggerating a bit. But not much!

New York City at Christmas is a magical place. Everything sparkles. Romance is in the air.  Hot chocolate is plentiful.

I ended up visiting New York at Christmas kind of by accident. My mom had always wanted to see New York and it was the first time that both of us, plus my best friend, could all travel there together. Plus, I’d long dreamed of skating at the Rockefeller Rink, so it seemed like a great idea.

It is a great idea. With some important caveats. And this blog is about honest trip reports. So read about what I learned—the good, the not so good! – so that you can plan the best possible Christmas in New York, including the bus tour we took that is the best way to see it all.  

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Great: Dazzling Holiday Lights

The Rockefeller Center Christmas tree is an iconic symbol of holidays in America for a reason. It’s sooooo big. More than 50,000 LED lights! A 900-pound Swarovski star topper. I’ve never seen a tree so gorgeous, so stunning. TV does not do this justice.

Is it crowded? Hell, yeah. Some of the biggest crowds I’ve ever seen. Is it worth it? Also yeah. If you don’t try to go super close up, you can see it from pretty far where there is some breathing room.

If I had to do this again? To get the best views of the Rockefeller Christmas tree, I would book one of their VIP holiday tickets – for $40 you can get a professional photo with the tree from an exclusive vantage point, or rent a rink-side chalet with awesome views for $45-$180 for 45-minute slots.

(The tree lighting ceremony date changes each year. Check the official site for updates.)

Steps from the tree, Fifth Avenue shops like Saks and Cartier’s offer over-the-top sound and light shows that had me oohing and ahhhhhing. Like, I knew about the famous holiday window displays but these are highly choreographed presentations that light up the entire buildings that you can see and hear from across the street or even a block away.

But it’s not just Rockefeller center that shines. We delighted in Christmas displays all over the city, in front of banks, malls and other public spaces. It really is Christmasy everywhere.

Great: Ice Skating and Christmas Markets

Skating at the Rockefeller rink is a great way to get up close to that majestic tree, get some exercise, and if you have a partner really have a date to brag about for all time. You should book in advance for weekend or evening slots, and it’s not the cheapest. But I say it’s 100% worth it. Read my full report on ice skating at Rockefeller Center for what to know before you go.

One of my other fave experiences was visiting the Bryant Park Winter Village. They have an ice rink too, and a tree. All very pretty, with less crowding. It also has great gift shopping at European-style wooden kiosks to pick up locally made crafts and treats. One of the highlights of my trip to New York City at Christmas was splurging on a deluxe hot chocolate with my mom and just sitting together in Bryant Park watching New Yorkers go by. Of course you don’t have to buy anything to enjoy the atmosphere.

Bad: New York in December weather

I pictured snow. I worried about a storm delaying our flight. I didn’t think about rain. Or, rather, sleet.

The weather on Saturday night was dreadful. Which is bad enough but that meant we could not score a taxi or Uber to the dinner and show we had booked. I actually ended up hailing one of those guys-on-bikes. Yikes! They charge per minute and I thought “how much can 4 blocks be?” Readers, it cost more than 100 American dollars. I refused to tell my mom how much this cost. I just put it on the card and got us to the show on time.

Ouch: Holiday Hotel Prices

My visit to New York City at Christmas necessitated spending more on a hotel room than I have in any of my travels. I understand it’s high season, with premium weekend prices. But I’ve stayed in 5-star ocean front resorts for less than a tiny room walking distance from Times Square on a Saturday in December. (The location was important: my mom had mobility limitations and seeing Times Square was her dream, I wanted us to be close.) I’m pretty good at finding deals, but at some point had to give up and splurge if I was going to make this trip happen.

On the positive side, I loved staying at the Hard Rock Hotel. World-class service, fun and glamourous music memorabilia everywhere, a vinyl record player for our room, cool bar with a view. Would I spend $1000 for one night there again? Probably not. But I would for sure return at a lower season rate.

Bad: Crowds, Crowds, and More Crowds

In case it wasn’t clear yet, everything was crowded. You want to get a picture in front of the Rockefeller tree? Prepare to be jostled. You want to go for lunch? Prepare to wait a long time for a table, and possibly give up and go get take-out pizza slices. Everybody was in a festive mood but still, pack your patience.

Traffic was also a nightmare in the evening. If you can walk, that’s great. But if you need a taxi, don’t count on getting anywhere quickly. I should have budgeted an hour before show time to go a few blocks.

Crowds are part of travelling to popular places. So just be aware, be prepared, and embrace it as much as you can. And have a back-up plan if your first choice is full.

Best Way to Enjoy New York City at Christmas?

Want to know the best thing I did to embrace the Christmas spirit in NYC? A small splurge that was worth every dollar? We took a bus tour. A Santa Claus themed bus tour.

It’s called the North Pole Express. It’s one of those double-decker hop-on-hop-off buses, but tricked out for Christmas. With lots of lights. Holiday music. Actors portraying Santa’s elves. We got fleece blankets, silver bells to ring, Santa hats, hot chocolate and cookies. And most importantly, my mom got to see the Rockefeller tree, the 5^th avenue displays, Radio City Music Hall, and more Christmas lights all over Manhattan without having to walk. Totally cheesy. Not something I would ever do on my own. She loved it. And I loved watching her enjoy it.  10/10 would recommend.

Would I do any of this again?

Honestly, in terms of New York City at Christmas I think I’m “one and done.” I’m very glad I went, that I was able to share it with loved ones, but the expense is too much for me to make it a habit.

I hope this was helpful for you to weigh the magic against the madness and decide if it’s the right holiday destination for you!