Everything I wish I’d known about doing a flying dress photoshoot in Samarkand as a plus-size traveller
If you’ve looked up Samarkand, Uzbekistan on social media, you’ve seen her: a woman in a jewel-toned gown, a long satin train lifted into the air against the tiled archways of the Registan. It’s the famous “flying dress” photoshoot, normally seen in Santorini Greece or Istanbul Turkey. But you can also do this flying dress photoshoot in Samarkand, which I recently visited on my first trip to Central Asia. So, for one brief moment, I was that woman.
’ve looked at a lot of flying dress photos and thought “that’s so beautiful, but I bet they do not have dresses that fit me.” Most of the photos and videos I’ve seen would support this, as they are of smaller, slimmer travellers. I’m a size XL/16. ISo I waffled about adding this to my short time in Samarkand but was then encouraged by a more mid-size content creator posting her Samarkand flying dress pictures to give it a try.
Here’s what I learned about doing a flying dress photoshoot as a plus-sized woman. I’ll cover the specifics of photoshoots in the Registan but also general advice for travellers with larger bodies considering a shoot like this anywhere in the world.
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Quick Facts: Flying Dress Photoshoot in Samarkand
- Where: Registan Square, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
- Cost: $100–$200 USD (booked in advance with photographer) $65–$90 USD (walk-up), or about $35 USD (dress rental only).
- Time needed: 1 hour (30-40 minute shoot, plus getting dressed)
- What you get: Photos and videos, immediately transferred to your phone
- Plus sizes? Yes. I’m an XL/16 and had several options that fit
- Best time: Early morning. The Registan opens around 8am in summer
- Bring: US cash for negotiating and tipping
Why Do a Flying Dress Photoshoot at the Registan?
The Registan is Samarkand’s headline attraction, and one of the most photographed places in Central Asia. Three madrasas (historic Islamic schools) frame a grand public square. Each has a soaring arched entranceway, a turquoise dome, and walls covered floor to ceiling in mosaic tilework in every shade of blue.
That’s what makes it such a good backdrop. Geometric patterns, painted flowers and calligraphy fill the frame behind you, and the huge arches give a long train room to fly. Sherdar Madrasa, built in the early 1600s, has the most famous photo spot: the top of its front steps, with the tiled entrance behind you.
It’s also less crowded than Santorini or Istanbul. At the right time of day, you’ll share the square with only a few other photoshoots.
What the Experience Is Like
Everything happens within the Registan. Small shops inside rent traditional Uzbek-style costumes with rich embroidery and patterns. Accessories and jewellery are included, such as headpieces and rings. If you’ve booked in advance, your photographer will meet you outside the gates. Otherwise you pay your own admission and then go find a shop to arrange your shoot.
Photographers will take you around the best photo spots in the square, pose you, arrange and toss the train, and shoot both photos and video.
You move around the whole site. Unlike some flying dress locations, you aren’t shooting one money shot in a single spot. You’ll go from the steps of Sherdar Madrasa to archways, courtyards and passageways, so you get a variety of backdrops. And unlike Santorini or Istanbul, there are no seagulls or other birds flying through your shots.
The shoot lasts 30 minutes to an hour, depending on your package.
You’ll get dozens of photos. I got about 50 raw photos plus video. I’ve seen packages advertised with around 30 edited photos.
You get your files right away. Mine were transferred to my phone on the spot: my photographer had an adapter that let him plug his camera’s memory card directly into my phone.
How Much Does a Flying Dress Photoshoot in Samarkand Cost?
It depends on how you book: anywhere from $65 USD to $200 USD. The two main options are booking a photographer in advance or walking up on the day. Each gets you a different level of choice, editing and communication.
Booking in advance: about $100–$200 USD. This usually includes Registan admission, several videos and edited files. You can book through GetYourGuide or contact photographers directly by searching hashtags on Instagram. Booking ahead lets you choose a photographer based on their past work, so you can check their style matches yours — and if they’ve shot plus-size models before. You can also ask about their English before you commit. This is what most people do.
Walking up: about $65–$90 USD, plus admission. You may be approached by touts working the square, or you can go find the dress shops inside the madrasas yourself, as I did. The price depends on your negotiating skills. My shop started at $90 USD. I knew someone who had paid $75, and I eventually got it down to $65. That got me one video shot on my own phone and raw, unedited photo files. I wouldn’t pay more than $100 on site, but looking back, I probably should have paid more than $65 (more on that below). Agree on the price and on what’s included before you change into the dress.
Dress only: about $35 USD. If you’ve brought your own photographer, or a friend who’s good with a phone, you can rent just the dress.
Don’t forget admission. Walk-up prices don’t include the Registan ticket (100,000 UZS, about $11 CDN for foreigners).
Dress Sizes? Will It Fit?
Yes, they had XL dresses. I’m a size 16 and found several that fit me fine. I can’t say exactly how big the sizes go, but there were more options than I expected.
The “dress” is really a robe that ties around you, so the waist and bust are flexible. That makes it far more forgiving than a fitted gown. Underneath you wear a simple white dress, and the shop had plenty of those in bigger sizes too. The jewellery came in different sizes as well, including the rings.
You’ll have fewer colours and styles to choose from. There were fewer options in my size, which is how I ended up in baby blue and white instead of ruby red or emerald green. If you have your heart set on a colour, book ahead and confirm your size and colour before you arrive.
No one treated me differently because of my size. The only real difference was that the staff couldn’t pick out dresses that would fit me just by looking, so I had to do some of the sorting myself. I once had a lousy experience in India, where shop staff didn’t hesitate to comment on my body while I was trying things on, so this was a welcome change.
If you’re in this size range and curious, I’d encourage you to try it.
When to Go
Time of day: early morning or late afternoon. The Registan is open daily from about 8am to 7pm in summer and 9am to 5pm in winter, so a shoot inside the madrasas has to fit those hours.
- Early morning. I went at 8:30am because that’s when I had free time. The light was lovely and there were hardly any people. Some of the dress shops weren’t open yet when I arrived though so I had limited choice.
- Midday: avoid it in summer. Samarkand has a hot, dry climate, and average highs reach mid-30s from June through August. A friend did her shoot at 1pm and found it tough. Layers of satin in full sun are no joke.
- Golden hour. I imagine late afternoon is lovely, though I didn’t see it first-hand.
Season: spring or fall. Much more comfortable for dressing up outdoors. If you’re visiting in the cooler months, the shops also have heavier robes and coats.
What I Learned: Takeaways and Tips
I had fun. It was a silly add-on to my trip, but it wasn’t “glamorous,” and I’d plan a few things differently next time.
- The language barrier was real. My photographer had basic English, but I couldn’t explain the nuances of my style. His usual list of poses included a lot of cutesy ones I didn’t want to do, and I don’t think he understood why.
- Check that the photographer has shot bigger bodies. If their Instagram shows people who look like you, they’ll know you may need different poses and angles.
- Plan your poses in advance. Either way, decide what you like or want to try before the shoot, and save reference photos on your phone. Don’t leave it all up to them.
- Choose your own accessories. They make a huge difference. I didn’t choose mine: they put a headpiece on me and off we went. I should have looked through the options and picked one that felt more like me, (aka, not white).
- Pay extra for edited photos. The flying dress pictures that grab your attention online have been edited by a professional.
- If it’s not a big deal to you, you can go cheap. Walk-up works fine as long as you know what you’re giving up. I got what I paid for.
- Take a friend with you, as a stylist. My photographer didn’t really look out for the details, like the dress being straight, my hair out of my face, that kind of thing.
- Don’t worry about onlookers. Most people are smiling and friendly. Nobody thinks you’re being weird.
- Bring US cash if you’re negotiating on site, plus extra for a tip if you’re happy with the results.
Learn about more cool things to do in Samarkand here.
Read how I really felt about my flying dress shoot on my Substack here.
Where to stay in Samarkand: DiliMah Premium Luxury Hotel
As my regular blog readers will know, I love a good hotel pool. In extra hot cities, it becomes a survival strategy.
Our Samarkand travel HQ was DiliMah Premium Luxury Hotel, a small modern hotel with a lovely outdoor pool and garden that was truly an oasis in the August heat. I also loved the purple velvet lobby with chandeliers, my spacious room with soaker tub. This was a sponsored hotel stay; I can honestly recommend it for a more upscale experience in Samarkand.
It”s about a 10-minute cab/ride share from the Registan.
FAQ: Flying Dress Photoshoot in Samarkand
Do flying dress shops in Samarkand have plus sizes?
Yes. I’m a size XL/16 and found several dresses that fit. The robe style ties around you, so it’s forgiving at the waist and bust. Expect fewer colour and style options in larger sizes.
How much does a flying dress photoshoot in Samarkand cost?
About $65–$90 USD if you walk up and negotiate on site, plus Registan admission ($11 CDN). Booking a photographer in advance costs about $100–$200 USD, usually with admission and edited files included. Renting just the dress costs about $35 USD.
Do I need to book the Registan flying dress shoot in advance?
No. You can walk up and find the dress shops inside the Registan, or deal with the touts in the square. Booking ahead is better if you want to choose your photographer, get edited photos, or confirm your size and colour.
How long does the photoshoot take?
30 minutes to an hour, plus time to get dressed.
How many photos do you get?
Dozens. I got about 50 raw photos and a video, transferred straight to my phone. Some advance packages advertise around 30 edited photos.
What’s the best time of day for a flying dress shoot at the Registan?
Early morning, for soft light and few crowds. Avoid midday in summer, when temperatures regularly reach the mid-30s°C.
Can you do a flying dress shoot in Samarkand in winter?
Yes. The shops have heavier robes and coats for the cooler months. Note that the Registan’s winter hours are shorter.
Do I have to pay admission to the Registan for the photoshoot?
Yes. Walk-up prices don’t include the ticket (100,000 UZS, about $11 CDN for foreigners). Most advance bookings include it.
Is the flying dress photoshoot worth it?
If you’re curious, yes. It’s a fun, silly souvenir. Pay a little more for an experienced photographer and edited files if great photos matter to you.
Should I Stay or Should I Go (Probably)
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